Brawn and Brains

LONDON – London diners, like their New York City counterparts, are in thrall to fat. Especially fat of the pig variety. The trend has been reigning supreme for years now, and though vegetarians are gaining ground from the left flank, the noble hog isn't ceding his throne anytime soon. Much ado was made of Terroirs when it opened near touristy Trafalgar Square in 2010, and much is being made of its new sister restaurant, Brawn, on the East End. Technically, they both call themselves wine...